Each year the team at Merrell Apparel attempts to create new and innovative concept pieces. This year was no different. For the 2009 Outdoor Retailer Show, Merrell created a concept it calls NADA, or Not Any Dye Applied. This particular concept focuses on eliminating the water, chemicals, energy, and pollution associated with dyed garments. Textile dyeing happens to be a tremendous source of industrial water pollution. The World Bank estimates that 17–20 percent of industrial pollution comes from textile coloring and treatment. Seventy-two of the top most toxic chemicals in our water come solely from textile dyeing and, of those, 30 cannot be removed. Removing dye from clothing, as Merrell has done with NADA, can vastly alter the environmental impact of a garment. Merrell claims that by purchasing a single small woman’s NADA jacket a consumer would save:

• 1.6 kg of carbon dioxide from being emitted
• 115.2 liters of water
• 0.18 kg of chemicals
• 2.47 kilowatt-hours of energy

apparel’s dirty little secret

Merrell’s concept may not incorporate a new fiber or design technology, but it is groundbreaking in that it calls attention to a major environmental issue within the textile industry. Compared to its dyed counterparts, each NADA garment represents a clear and quantifiable difference in resources used and pollution avoided. What is remarkable to us is that an apparel company has endeavored to highlight and discuss a dirty and poorly kept industry secret: just how bad dyeing clothing is for the environment.

Jordan Wand, Merrell Apparel vice president and general manager, puts it this way:

During the development process, our team was amazed by the staggering statistics of just how much water, energy, and chemicals are used to create one jacket. We are thrilled to create a garment that’s stunning from the outside yet gives you modern outdoor performance on the mountain or street. The NADA pieces perform exactly the same as any of our other technical jackets while saving a vast amount of natural resources.

nada choices expand

When Merrell introduced the NADA concept at the Outdoor Retailer Show back in January, the jacket received some much deserved attention—apparently enough attention to inspire the company to expand the concept across multiple styles for spring 2010. The upcoming spring NADA line features four categories: the “Ride of Your Life” Horizon Collection of consumer cycling inspired designs, “Performance Made Beautiful” styles that include the brand’s first-ever collection of dresses, “Trail Mix” running apparel, and UPF protective styles in “Salute to the Sun.” Merrell is also making 15 jacket styles in the spring ’10 collection available as a NADA option.

The NADA concept introduced earlier this year began as a step toward acknowledging an environmental issue and creating an alternative. The fact that Merrell expanded the line for the upcoming spring collection is indicative of a concept that resonated with the Outdoor Retailer Show attendees. With companies and consumers alike examining the environmental impacts of actions and products, the timing of NADA’s release could not be better. A tremendous amount of water, chemicals, and energy are required to add color, which adds aesthetic value but contributes no performance or technical benefits.

Using NADA as the beginning of a conversation with consumers about the impact of textile dyeing is both commendable and a refreshing change from companies that attempt to hide environmental issues. We believe that Merrell has taken a brave and important step toward producing apparel with less of an environmental impact, and we applaud them for expanding the NADA collection and educating consumers. Look for NADA clothing starting in January at retailers worldwide, and be sure to share your thoughts with us on this very important step toward environmentally friendlier apparel.

So far this week we have written about one company implementing sustainable practices to increase productivity and save money, and another company pledging sustainable practices after a public campaign against them. Today to round out our theme of corporate moves toward sustainability, we focus on a company rising to a challenge.

zero impact challenge, 2009

Patagonia, a company known in their industry for good environmental practices, has taken on a challenge from Backpacker Magazine to produce a backpacking boot with the least environmental impact. The Zero Impact Challenge, as Backpacker Magazine calls it, both inspires companies to reevaluate and redesign their products, and creates more environmentally friendly products.

In prior years, the Zero Impact Challenge has taken on producing lower impact backpacks and sleeping bags, but for 2009, the challenge has shifted to the hiking boot. Patagonia Footwear has decided that, as part of their effort in taking on this task, they will act transparently, providing sketches, letters, videos, and findings during the development process. Throughout, TreeHugger is going to be closely watching and reporting on the progress.

ecotone

Working on the challenge for Patagonia will be Clark Matis, founder of Merrell and technical designer for Patagonia Footwear, Robin Cheu, a production specialist from China, and JDK Design working on creative development. Together, they have created the Ecotone concept as a guide to manage the different components of inventing a low impact hiking boot. According to TreeHugger, the team will focus on:

• Fit: support, flex, variable volume, heel hold, and toe room
• Protection: stability, traction, durability, critical protection points, and cushioning
• Efficiency: light weight and optimized energy transfer
• Climate Control: fast drying, waterproof, vented, breathable, and temperature regulating
• Clean Design: “nothing more than is necessary”

Backpacker Magazine will accept prototype submissions in September. Patagonia plans to continue development with the goal of introducing an entire footwear collection in the spring 2011.

I for one plan on buying the winning pair of hiking boots both to support the  company’s hard work, and to test the end product on the stunning trails of the Colorado Front Range.

According to a new study conducted by Miller Zell, our nation’s retailers are missing the boat when it comes to offering eco-friendly products. In fact, the survey finds that half of all shoppers are willing to pay more for green goods and they universally dissatisfied with the sustainability information.

An interesting finding from the study uncovers a higher willingness of lower income shoppers to pay a premium for green products. In fact they are more likely to pay for eco-friendly items than middle or upper income consumers. Why are lower income shoppers more willing to shell out a higher percentage of their hard-earned cash for “green goods”? Some speculate that this is due to Gen Y Millennials who have just entered the workforce, and who make up a disproportionate percentage of the lower income bracket.

The Miller Zell study also indicates that there is an opportunity for companies to supply more green information at the shelf level. On average, 40 percent of consumers desire more information about green products, with Gen Y Millenials listed as the most interested segment. Although consumers yearn for an increased amount of quality information, retailers are not delivering. The overall availability of in store information on green products received a D- from those who participated in the study. All of this is good timeing for Wal-Mart’s new sustainabilty index labels. The team in Arkansas seem to, once again, know exactly what consumers are looking for.

photo credit: Miller Zell study Stores Not Doing Enough to Sell Green