In late January, 78 retailers received notice from the FTC to immediately cease labeling any clothing or other textiles, such as sheets or towels, as bamboo. Why? Because the fiber is actually rayon and no different than rayon made with other cellulose sources, such as wood pulp.

Who were some of these companies sited for selling mislabeled products? They range from little retailers such as Bambooya, to big-box stores such as Wal-Mart and Target, to high-end establishments such as Nordstrom and Barney’s New York. Even Zappos and Amazon.com received notice. You can download the full list from the FTC.

So what does the FTC want companies to do? Easy, label the garments and textiles for what they are. Here’s an excerpt from the letter sent to the retailers:

The term ‘bamboo,’ therefore, may be used in labeling or advertising a textile product (e.g., ‘bamboo shirt’) only to describe textile fibers taken directly from the bamboo plant without the type of chemical processing necessary to make rayon. Rayon, even if manufactured using cellulose from bamboo, must be described by an appropriate term recognized under the FTC Textile Rules. If rayon is manufactured using bamboo as the cellulose source, then you also may include that information in the textile label, for example, by describing the fiber as ‘rayon made from bamboo.’

As a team who’s trying to help bring sustainable practices to the textile industry, we’re pleased that the truth about bamboo is being discussed and it’s eco-friendly image is tarnished. There’s no dispute that bamboo is a great resource for the wood products like flooring or cutting boards. But the expensive, toxic, and wasteful process needed to take course bamboo and make it into a soft fabric is anything but good for the planet.

So, you can help, first, don’t buy bamboo rayon products. Or any kind of rayon product, not only is the process toxic, rayon is not very durable and requires dry cleaning (a topic for another post!). And if you happen to see a retailer claiming their product as bamboo, the FTC would like to know about it. You can report the company online or by phone. 1-877-382-4357. Companies found mislabeling their products face a $16,000 fine per violation.

photo credit: MikeLowe / Flickr

Natural bamboo stalk that’s been separated into fibers is a course fabric, similar to linen. But the soft garments offered are not made that way. The truth is that the bamboo’s cellulose is used to create rayon. And that is what is being sold to us, often with the label of “organic bamboo.” You may wonder if the rayon is still bamboo? As a matter of fact, tests do not show any differences between rayon made from bamboo and other types of plants once they’ve been processed.

On top of that, does this sound like an eco-friendly product to you…?

Strong chemicals are used to break down the cellulose. After the polymer forms, the chemicals need to be removed by multiple washes. Like most industrial manufacturing, the process requires high water and energy use, and produces air and water pollution.

Naturally, we doubt this will be the last word and we’ll probably hear from proponents that the FTC has it all wrong. But, the facts are clear to us. Bamboo rayon is marketing greenwash and not an eco-friendly product.

What do you think about bamboo in light of these facts?

With so many companies touting green products, it’s hard to differentiate between true green initiatives and (truly) good marketing campaigns. To help you wade through some of the hype, we’ve put together a quick guide to green fabrics.

organic cotton

Twenty-five percent of the world’s insecticides are used on conventional cotton. While organic cotton offers an appealing alternative because it’s pesticide free, it’s not without caveats. First, cotton of any kind requires a tremendous amount of water to grow—about 715 gallons per shirt. Second, since the United States is only responsible for about 2 percent of worldwide cotton production, organic cotton is typically grown abroad and shipped overseas, resulting in a pretty hefty carbon footprint. Your best bet is to buy from U.S.-grown sources. Check out Brand of the Free for graphic tees made from cotton in Texas.

bamboo

Bamboo, as a plant, is unbelievably sustainable to grow—it’s the process from farm to fabric that’s laden with chemical treatments. The result? A very small percentage of bamboo fabric can be certified sustainable. There’s a small segment of bamboo fabric production that doesn’t use chemicals, but the process is labor and resource intensive and, therefore, much more costly.

hemp

Hemp is naturally a very sustainable crop that requires little water and typically no chemicals to produce, and yields a much larger harvest than cotton. Since hemp produces a coarser fabric, it’s great for tougher materials like jeans and outerwear. However, because of U.S. restrictions on hemp growth, much like organic cotton, hemp is largely grown overseas.

recycled PET fabric

On the synthetic side, recycled PET fabric, made from post-consumer plastics, is a seriously sustainable contender. In its original form, PET is used to make plastic bottles and polyester. Recycled PET can be made into fiber for nearly anything from carpet to clothing. The fabric feels similar to polyester and works especially well with outdoor wear. Check out Nau for a modern, super sleek line of recycled polyester clothing.

The bottom line? Buy local when possible, buy hemp or organic cotton when it’s not, and think of recycled synthetics as a major part of the solution.