Since the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) charged four companies last month with deceptive labeling and advertising, there has been quite a bit of attention paid to so-called “eco-friendly” bamboo fabrics. We just came across a new article from the AATCC (American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorist) that clearly lays out how the fabric we see in stores and online is far from “green.”

Natural bamboo stalk that’s been separated into fibers is a course fabric, similar to linen. But the soft garments offered are not made that way. The truth is that the bamboo’s cellulose is used to create rayon. And that is what is being sold to us, often with the label of “organic bamboo.” You may wonder if the rayon is still bamboo? As a matter of fact, tests do not show any differences between rayon made from bamboo and other types of plants once they’ve been processed.

On top of that, does this sound like an eco-friendly product to you…?

Strong chemicals are used to break down the cellulose. After the polymer forms, the chemicals need to be removed by multiple washes. Like most industrial manufacturing, the process requires high water and energy use, and produces air and water pollution.

Naturally, we doubt this will be the last word and we’ll probably hear from proponents that the FTC has it all wrong. But, the facts are clear to us. Bamboo rayon is marketing greenwash and not an eco-friendly product.

What do you think about bamboo in light of these facts?

More and more broadly available, recycled PET is a growing trend in eco-friendly fabrics. We’re taking a look at the process and advantages of recycled plastic fiber.

Read part 1: how plastic trash becomes fabric

landfill to retail

Once a drink bottle is collected, it is sent off to a processing facility. There, the bottle is cut into small pieces called flake and then washed. PET flake is then melted into a liquid and shaped into a long, thin fiber. These fibers are spun into yarn in the same manner as materials such as cotton, wool, and other natural products. These yarns are now 100 percent recycled polyester.

By using recycled plastic instead of new petroleum, over 60 percent of the energy is saved without any additional harm to the environment. No other fiber is produced with less impact.

Recycled polyester can also help the environment through the use of AirDye® technology. This process uses no water and much less energy to add color and designs to the fabric. Conventional dye and printing methods pollute over 15 gallons of water for a simple t-shirt in addition to introducing a number of hazardous chemicals and by-products into the environment. AirDye technology makes a great looking product without all those problems and the color lasts as long as the garment.

Manufacturers of apparel and other products are beginning to look at recycled polyester as not just the best alternative to natural fibers, but a better choice. This material is available, easy to work with, affordable, and provides consumers with the better environmental product.

Better for the Planet and Better for You

Another area where recycled polyester can help make a positive change is in the use and care of a garment made from it. A cotton shirt holds water. A lot of it. And if you are wearing it during a workout or caught in the rain, you know what we’re talking about. Polyester sheds the water. This is makes it more comfortable to wear. But consider what happens in the wash. A shirt that holds less water is easier to clean and dry. It takes less than half the energy and water to wash a shirt made from polyester as it does one made of cotton.

Polyester is also tougher than cotton. A polyester shirt lasts longer; up to five times longer. A longer life means buying fewer shirts, which means less resources consumed. Not to mention the money you save.

Lastly, what do you do with your shirt when you can no longer use it? The first and most obvious choice is to pass it on to someone who can. So, a shirt that lasts longer is even more important. But, what then? The ability to recycle that same shirt into yet more RPET and recycled polyester and back into a new garment is key. No products going to landfill.

How many times can a product come back again and again? We honestly don’t know–generations, at the very least. This brings new meaning to the term “hand me down.”

Recycled Polyester and You

Each shirt, bedspread, or handbag we make is one less made from the earth’s very limited resources. We know that not everything a person buys can be made from recycled trash. But for those products that can be, and that not only work as well, but even better; it seems obvious to us what to do. And we think that many of you agree with us.

how plastic trash becomes fabric

In today’s world of limited resources and ever increasing demand for sustainable product alternatives, we are all looking for ways to do our part and to make a positive choice for the environment. Our clothes are often overlooked as a way to make a difference.

When we are shopping, we often look for labels that say “organic” or “renewable,” but what do these mean? Are they the best choice for people who care about their world?

Cotton is the world’s largest non-food crop, estimated at 166 million bales in 2007 alone, according to the National Cotton Council of America. The use of pesticides and fertilizers are usually thought of as it’s only negative effect and that generates the demand for “organic” products. But in reality, the land use, water consumption, and all the energy and chemistry required to turn cotton fiber into fabric are the real problems. Other natural fibers such as hemp and bamboo may not require a lot of irrigation, but need even more processing to make the fibers soft and usable.

Should we be using such enormous amounts of the planet’s limited resources to grow these products if there is a better alternative?

In 2006, the United States sent over 2 million tons of plastic drink bottles to landfill. These bottles, identified by the number “1” in the recycle symbol are made of the plastic called PET. This material is the most recycled plastic on earth and can be processed in almost any location. Recycled PET, also called RPET, has a potential harvest of billions of pounds of material per year and is nearly free. But what can we do with it?

Recent innovations have created processes which allow companies to take discarded PET and turn it into soft, durable, and highly sustainable fabrics for a wide range of uses. You may know this material as polyester, but with uses such as micro-fiber, performance fabrics, even warm fleece, it’s come a long way since the days of disco suits and double-knit slacks. The use of recycled PET is a fast growing industry that has the potential to lessen our dependence on limited natural resources while offering great new products.

Fabric mills today turn the RPET yarns into amazing fabrics. These fabrics have characteristics that not only keep you warm and dry, but can wick away moisture, release stains, eliminate odors, kill germs, and even protect the lives of fire fighters and law enforcement. The ability for polyester to “breath” allowing moisture to escape while keeping you comfortable is revolutionizing the sports apparel industry. But at the same time, they can be softer than silk, or tougher than canvas.

Tomorrow – from landfill to retail.

photo source: MC =) / flickr

We’re thrilled to see the AirDye® gospel spreading as more and more environmentally responsible companies adopt our technology.

Our latest addition is New York-based JulieApple, a purveyor of green handbags, totes, and travel bags. Owner and designer Julianne Applegate is hardly a fashion novice—she’s worked with an impressive roster of heavy hitters, from Diane Von Furstenberg to Stella McCartney. While she’s been in the game for a while, it’s her concept that’s novel—Julie Apple is committed to using organic fabrics, recycled nautical materials, and most recently AirDye technology for all of her printed purses.

The Yoga-a-GoGo (above) bag is a personal favorite. With a tote this cute, there’s half a shot we’d actually pull it out the closet every once and a while.

With so many companies touting green products, it’s hard to differentiate between true green initiatives and (truly) good marketing campaigns. To help you wade through some of the hype, we’ve put together a quick guide to green fabrics.

organic cotton

Twenty-five percent of the world’s insecticides are used on conventional cotton. While organic cotton offers an appealing alternative because it’s pesticide free, it’s not without caveats. First, cotton of any kind requires a tremendous amount of water to grow—about 715 gallons per shirt. Second, since the United States is only responsible for about 2 percent of worldwide cotton production, organic cotton is typically grown abroad and shipped overseas, resulting in a pretty hefty carbon footprint. Your best bet is to buy from U.S.-grown sources. Check out Brand of the Free for graphic tees made from cotton in Texas.

bamboo

Bamboo, as a plant, is unbelievably sustainable to grow—it’s the process from farm to fabric that’s laden with chemical treatments. The result? A very small percentage of bamboo fabric can be certified sustainable. There’s a small segment of bamboo fabric production that doesn’t use chemicals, but the process is labor and resource intensive and, therefore, much more costly.

hemp

Hemp is naturally a very sustainable crop that requires little water and typically no chemicals to produce, and yields a much larger harvest than cotton. Since hemp produces a coarser fabric, it’s great for tougher materials like jeans and outerwear. However, because of U.S. restrictions on hemp growth, much like organic cotton, hemp is largely grown overseas.

recycled PET fabric

On the synthetic side, recycled PET fabric, made from post-consumer plastics, is a seriously sustainable contender. In its original form, PET is used to make plastic bottles and polyester. Recycled PET can be made into fiber for nearly anything from carpet to clothing. The fabric feels similar to polyester and works especially well with outdoor wear. Check out Nau for a modern, super sleek line of recycled polyester clothing.

The bottom line? Buy local when possible, buy hemp or organic cotton when it’s not, and think of recycled synthetics as a major part of the solution.